Fuel Pump


Fuel Pump
Modified bumper


Fuel pump seals are a common problem with 2.8 Pajero's so I've dedicated this page on how to remove your pump so the seals can be replaced and the pump re-calibrated or refurbished.

(Click on the thumbnails to enlarge pics)

You will need general workshop tools with a wide range of extension bars & sockets etc. A digital camera is useful so you can take pics as you go in case you forget where everything goes !

You'll need patience and time! Estimate approx 2 hours to remove pump for the first time, second time is always quicker but if you're reading this the I am guessing you've never done it before. So here's goes!


  1. Disconnect batteries and remove the battery tray on the front one

  2. Remove intercooler

  3. Remove sump guards and bash plates

  4. Remove radiator (drain and keep coolant if it's recent otherwise catch and dispose of at your recycling centre)

  5. Remove rocker cover

  6. Set N1 piston to TDC - set the V grove on the crankshaft pulley to '0' by turning clockwise - the protrusion on the second cam should be pointing upwards (see Haynes manual for further details)

  7. Refit rocker cover to keep dirt from entering

  8. Disconnect metal fuel pipes from injectors

  9. Disconnect all electric connections to pump (pics useful here)

  10. Remove large water hose

  11. Remove fuel pump water hoses (if fitted)

  12. Disconnect the turbo boost hose (on top of fuel pump)

  13. Disconnect the fuel leak-off pipe at the injector manifold end

  14. Disconnect throttle and kick-down cables (red and black)

  15. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel filter (fuel pump end top connection).

  16. Disconnect the fuel return pipe from fuel pump end

  17. Disconnect the aneroid pipe from the fuel pump

  18. Remove the brackets that support the pipes for the PAS pump

  19. Remove PAS pump by removing the 2 bolts (the bottom one is longer than the top) - rest the pump to the left out of the way

  20. Mark a tooth on the exposed gears of the fuel pump and the housing with Tippex to ensure the fuel pump is fitted back the same way.

  21. Remove the oil pressure switch and the metal pipe that connects the oil pump to the engine

  22. Remove the oil pump by removing the 2 bolts (the bottom one is shorter than the top)

  23. Remove the 3 bolts on the front housing. One is behind a pulley wheel, I found it easier to remove the pulley then the bolts

  24. Remove wire to starter motor (you'll see why next)

  25. Now there are 2 bolts on a bracket that hold the bottom of the pump on - access isn't easy so you'll have to 'feel' your way.

  26. When all the bolts are undone the pump will start to move, before you remove it mark the gearing with Tippex to align with other marking you made.

  27. If you have an electronic controlled pump (like mine) the top part can be removed just before the pump.

  28. Fitting is the reverse - just make sure your markings line up and all joints are clean. Prime pump and check for leaks.

Once the pump is removed you should ideally have it checked at a local diesel specialist - I used Diesel Bob, a very friendly an knowledgeable mail order service. My pump was refurbished with new seals and recalibrated. A re-seal cost 50 - 80, refurb depends on pump but around 250. May seem expensive but you've just saved loads by doing the most labour intensive part yourself! Would you want to do it again if something else wasn't right with your pump?



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This page was last updated 27-Nov-2009